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ONE Midtown Kitchen

First, a history lesson: Richard Blais (Flip Burger, HD1, The Spence, Top Chef All-Stars Winner) led this restaurant to greatness, and the quietly masterful Drew Van Leuven helmed it between a stint in charge of SAGA and his acclaimed new venture in Buckhead, Seven Lamps.

But there’s a new guy in charge, and these are interesting times at ONE Midtown Kitchen. In 2010, AJC food critic John Kessler’s sent an open letter to Atlanta chefs that they need to up their game. Chef Nick Oltarsh responded with an open letter to Atlanta diners, imploring them to be more adventurous to allow chefs to unleash their full creativity, and to dine out on weeknights, not just weekends. Two years later, the Atlanta dining landscape is as exciting as any city in the country.

Oltarsh is remaking the ONE menu, little by little, in his own image. He’s added wood roasted bone marrow, and crispy pork trotters with pickled vegetables. Old favorites are kept, like the irresistable Kit-Kat Bar dessert, and grilled goat cheese toast.

ONE delivers the kind of experience we’ve come to expect form a Concentrics restaurant — great space, interesting decor that provides its own talking points, and a high standard of training for the serving staff. Whether you’re looking for a romantic hideaway or a place to meet co-workers, ONE Midtown Kitchen is the perfect place.

Highlights

Steak Frites

Crispy French fries topped with tender hanger steak bites and tangy blue cheese. It kinda feels like you should be eating this at a ball park, rather than in the classy confines of one of Atlanta’s best restaurants.

Pan Seared Scallops

Delicious seared scallops served on a bed of peppery arugula with a ragout of lima beans, corn, and tomatoes, and saffron fish sauce. It’s exactly as good as it sounds, and there’s a reason it’s the most expensive item on the menu.

Kit Kat Bar

A dessert bar that’s an homage to the classic candy bar. You’ve got your praline crust, a chocolate cream, and a scoop of malted chocolate ice-cream. Surely you’re not still wondering why Oltarsh kept it on the menu.